Thursday, June 27, 2019

Basic understanding / beginning interest in neuromuscular recruitment

I have been very interested in how the body reacts to a new physical activity ever since I started yoga. When I was taking physical education classes in high school, we mainly did ball sports, which require a lot of quick hand-eye / arm-leg coordinations, running, quick bursts of sprinting, and a competitive mindset. Because I have never been great with quick coordinations, I often lose the ball, be it soccer, basketball, badminton, or frisbee. I also lack the strong desire to sprint faster than the next person for a few seconds in order catch that frisbee or dive hard for that volleyball. These sports require a ton of intuition and spontaneity.

For activities like hiking, snowboarding, yoga, and climbing, it is a totally different mindset. You are in less of a rush. The goal is kind of to keep the body moving, to be immersed in the experience and feel the movements. There is also coordination required, but you are more looking in a general direction rather than at a specific item outside of your body. Of course at a competition level these activities can be fast-paced, but when performed as leisurely activities, it is more enjoyable to focus on the breathing, whether or not the movements feel smooth and natural, in order to enter a flow. While learning the movement for these activities, one even has time to examine the body specifically from within: Am I using my leg muscles correctly for this lunge? Are my cores engaged adequately for this specific move? I find the whole internal inquiry journey quite enjoyable. Perhaps it's because I'm ultra nerdy.

I learned a lot about anatomy and breathing in general through learning yoga. However, I know very little about how the nervous system adapts to exercises. I mean, my nervous system tells me how I feel in the body before, during, and after a yoga or climbing session, but I'm not sure how to observe the nervous system itself. I know it's ramped up as my heart rate increases and my breathing becomes quicker and shallower. When the heart rates starts to calm down and I feel overall less panicky during cool down, that's the parasympathetic nervous system at work. After a yoga session, I usually feel a sense of electric pulses flowing up and down the body, but I'm not sure if that's the nervous system itself or more of the nadi channels / chi / elusive meridian system.

For yoga, from not being able to do an asana at all to feeling comfortable in an asana, there is of course neuromuscular recruitment. But it is not as apparent as climbing, when I started from not be able to do a single pull up (in fact, I could only hang on a bar for about 2-3 seconds before my shoulders and just the whole nervous system screaming at me to let go), to being able to hang for 5 seconds, with no more mental panicking; rather, just the nerves on the skin on my hands ask me to give my hands a break. Now I can do some pull ups (not great ones, since I do not specifically train for them), and can do some lock-offs (hold my arms in a tight bent position for 1-2 seconds). That is an obvious neuromuscular recruitment improvement.

I need to read up more on nervous systems in order to better describe how I feel in my journey of learning to climb.

Tuesday, June 11, 2019

Bouldering movements

I have been watching IFSC bouldering world cups on Youtube lately. I am very happy to discover this spectator sport. It is super exciting to watch, actually. This takes place in several cities in Asia, Europe, and North America each year. It is not televised, but is live streamed and can be played back later on Youtube. There is a qualifying round, a semi-final, and the final, where only the top 6 male and 6 female athletes are given 4 minutes to solve a boulder problem (4 boulder problems total).

Just what is a boulder problem? For competition climbing, it is a bunch of plastic handholds and footholds that one has to move through ("solve the sequence") to get to the top hold.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HgkRwiNQQs

In this video you see many athletes not being able to complete the problem at all, and the last guy completing the sequence, thus winning the competition.

What the video edited out is his previous 6 attempts, which is what I have enjoyed watching in the live stream version. In the first attempt an athlete often fails at an early stage. With each attempt the athlete "learns" the movements with his or her body, and gains some muscle memory. A good athlete usually improves with each attempt. If one doesn't run out of energy or time, one can often solve the problem within 4 minutes. A tall person often has reach advantage, but a short person can have better control of the centre of gravity and has better control of the body for explosive power movements. I just love to see the 4 minute progression where these world class athletes can go from totally failing to mastering a particular boulder problem.

I normally enjoy watching Youtuber climbers ranging from pretty good to really awesome monkeying around in their home gyms. But right after watching a World cup, where 22 year olds dominate the podium, the Youtuber climbers' movements seem somewhat sluggish. I guess right after watching Usain Bolt win a race, your friend who just won the local sprinting competition would look a bit slow too.

Does watching athlete boulder help with my own bouldering progress? Well, my progressions has been as follows:

Stage 1: Not able to do anything except what looks like a straight ladder climb on the wall (with big juggy hand and footholds).

Stage 2: Trying V1 (French grade 5) climbs that require some shift in body weights. Not able to read routes at all. My hands would hurt after holding my body on the wall for >3 seconds so I would come off the wall right after starting a route.

Stage 3: Being able to shift my body weight a bit more so I could do the V1s.

Stage 4: Hands getting a bit stronger so I could get on the wall, stay there a bit while looking for the next hand/foothold.

Stage 5: Get on a boulder, imagine what a world class athlete would do for the next step (some power jump move to the next handhold), and then recognize I am not strong enough to do it myself.

So I went from not knowing how to solve boulder problems to mentally knowing what to do but physically not able to do it. Believe it or not, this is a major improvement. Climbing is always both physical and mental.

By the way I just moved to another city (yet again). The boulder problems here are quite a different style than in my previous gym. I was doing 6A+s/V3/V4s. But now apparently V3s are out of reach for me here because they put dynos in (jump to the next hand holds... I am unable to jump while on a wall right now). So I will work on my balances and core strengthening (on the wall, not working out at a gym), hoping by the end of the year I will see some improvements.