July climbing progress

Although I don't feel I am getting much stronger, I feel more comfortable on hard routes now (7- /7s). My muscle endurance have improved. I can calm down and try a few different things, whereas previously if I encountered a route where I didn't know how to approach the next move, I would panic and pause for hanging right away.

Climbing is all about fighting discomfort/fear. The list of fears include:

- Discomfort about feeling out of balanced 

• I feel I'm not in control

- Discomfort about lack of body tension 

• Lots of core strength and stabilization muscles needed to hold oneself in mid air in odd positions 

- Discomfort of such strong exertion on the hands, shoulders, and back normally not experienced in every day life 

• Some days I am not even able to exert as much power as needed to do a move. Other days when I can, I feel powerful, amazed, ecstatic, gratified, and unsure how long I can maintain it. I still don't know where power is generated. Is it from the mind, or is it this Qi/energy flow, which theoretically originates from the abdomen and from the breaths

- Fear of heights

• I would try the next hard move if I were close to the ground, but not so far up the wall, or on an overhang route

- Fear for the next daunting next move 

• a dyno, Gaston, tiny crimp, unsure where to place one foot after the move, etc

- Fear of falling

• Uncertain if I can catch the next hand hold and keep myself on the wall
• Uncertain if I am strong enough to stick the next move
• Uncertain even if I succeed in the move, if I have the endurance to hang on for some seconds
• Uncertain if my foot would slip when I try to push myself up to grab the next hand hold

- Fear of letting go of a hand to clip the rope

• Again, need to learn to have body balance/body control/trust the feet won't slip/fingers are strong enough etc.

A lot of times I pre-rest in anticipation that my hand won't be able to hang on for long enough for me to clip a quick draw, but usually, when I just hang on and fight, I am able to hang on despite tired hands and slow clipping. It's all a matter of getting used to the stimulus and the environment.

A friend has a completely different approach to climbing. She talks a lot about goals, but she progresses extremely slowly. She is very lean (which is a good body type for climbing), but seems unable to build muscles. I suspects she needs to 1) climb harder, 3) work on horizontal traverses and body weight transfer footwork 3) eat more protein/fat, 4) lift some weights, 5) perhaps some body weight exercises like sit ups, leg lifts and push ups.  Not everyone is willing to put in that much efforts though. I personally get very antsy about not making any kind of progress, but maybe other people just want to have fun and not do supplemental work out just to improve in climbing.  

I hope there isn't another lockdown for us. I'm really hoping to become comfortable with lead climbing 7s by the end of 2020. Right now I can only top rope a few 7s, and I never feel fully comfortable on the routes. If there is indeed another lockdown, I will push myself do to more fingerboard hanging, elastic theraband exercises, and core strengthening exercises.